Thubron, now in his eighties, remains impressively consistent in his proclivity for spartan accommodations and opinionated, hard-living tour guides. But a new melancholy permeates his starkly elegant prose. The Amur was to be Russia’s 'artery to the Pacific,' full of promise. Instead, it became 'a labyrinth of shoals, shallows and dead ends,' a land of desolate beauty and stunted possibility..